FAQ

pH measures how acidic or basic the water is, on a scale where seven is neutral. Ideal spa pH should measure between 7.2 and 7.6. Outside this range you risk bacterial growth or corrosion of spa components.

Add pH increaser (liquid or powder) in small amounts to make the water less acidic. Allow at least six hours of circulation before retesting. Make adjustments gradually, as pH increaser can also affect alkalinity.

Use pH decreaser (liquid or powder) to make the water more acidic when pH is too high. Apply in small steps, allowing six hours of circulation between tests. High pH reduces sanitiser effectiveness and causes scaling.

Total Alkalinity buffers pH levels, keeping them stable during adjustments. The ideal range is 125 to 150 ppm. Always measure and adjust TA first before adjusting pH, as achieving the correct TA may resolve pH issues naturally.

Open all jets by turning the faceplates counter-clockwise. Lower the thermostat to prevent heating. Run the jets on high for 10 to 15 seconds, then repeat three more times, increasing the duration each time. Continue until all air bubbles release from the jets.

An ozonator is equipment that creates ozone, which is injected into the water to destroy bacteria and clump contaminants together for filter removal. It must be used alongside a chemical sanitiser, since ozone does not provide continuous treatment the way chemicals do.

Shock is a treatment dose added after each hot tub use and weekly after balancing the water. For bromine systems, a weekly shock reactivates the sanitiser. Shock targets contaminants, initially creating chloramines that dissipate as oxidation completes. Leave the cover off until chlorine drops to at least 5 ppm.

Use scent additives made specifically for hot tubs. Avoid essential oils, as they build up and leave residue. Check your water chemistry first if an odour is present. Cheap products may negatively affect chemistry or trigger allergies.

Use a limescale preventer product before buildup occurs. Calcium deposits stress heating systems and increase heating costs. We sell No Scale in 1-litre and 2-litre bottles.

Test daily as a minimum using test strips for all the important readings. Always adjust alkalinity first (in small doses), then pH, then sanitiser, and finally calcium if needed. Allow 5 to 6 hours between retests. pH is the most critical, as poor pH prevents the sanitiser working and corrodes components.

Prevent foam by rinsing before use, keeping drinks away from the water, and using quality chemicals. Remove it quickly with a No Foam product (a capful dissolves foam immediately). For persistent problems, rinse the filters regularly, use Spa Sparkle, or drain and refill.

BioFilm is a bacteria buildup that forms sticky layers inside the plumbing, attracting more bacteria and organic contaminants. It protects bacteria from sanitiser and may contain dangerous pathogens such as Legionella, MRSA and E. coli. It requires a pipe flush product plus a drain, clean and refill; shock treatment alone will not eliminate it.

Foam cores absorb water over time, becoming waterlogged and heavier. The vapour barrier eventually wears out, allowing water to penetrate and reducing heat retention, which increases electricity costs. Replace covers when they become noticeably heavier (typically after 3 to 5 years). Heavy covers also stress cover lifters and spa cabinets.